Let’s go over some of the plumbing. This post will cover just a high-level look
at several different things. Post up
what you want to see more detail about and I’ll do my best to cover it.
First, I’ll start with intercooler piping. I have a 5” thick ETS intercooler with 3” lower piping and 3.5” upper. This has been on the car a while and I figured I’d reuse the whole setup for this build. That didn’t go to plan… haha. I ended up needing to weld an elbow on the end of the intercooler to clear my oil cooler (I believe I posted about that already? If not, I’ll have to make another post about my coolers). That elbow necessitated making a new lower intercooler pipe. Then when I put the automatic in, I discovered that my charge pipe that cleared the manual transmission hit the auto, so now its time for a new upper IC pipe as well. I made the upper and lower pipes myself. I’m not an expert welder but I can get by TIG welding. I purchased tubing from Extreme PSI then cut/fit and welded it all myself. Here’s the upper being made:
Old charge pipe with the manual:
Next up is the downpipe and exhaust. I stated before that I purchased the downpipe
from Morrison Fab. It came out amazing
and saved me a ton of time. I already
had a 4” aluminum exhaust from the back of the transfer case back so I just had
to finish the last bit of the downpipe from Morrison Fab to fit with my exhaust. Here are some pics:
Then there’s all the AN lines on this car. There are A LOT. I used mostly black nylon hose and black
fittings all from Extreme PSI. Here’s a
list of what has AN lines and what size:
Oil Cooler -8 AN
Transmission Cooler -8 AN
All boost lines -4 AN
Turbo feed -4 AN
Turbo coolant lines -4 AN
Turbo Drain -10 AN
Ethanol tank to Bosch 044 pumps 2x -10 AN
044’s to rail Y to a single -8 AN
Secondary Rail Return -6 AN
In tank Walbro 450 to Rail -8 AN
Primary Rail return -6 AN
Radiator Hoses -16 AN
I think that covers it all, here are some pictures:
If you were following along closely, you read where I put
the engine in the car with the dogbox because I was waiting on some parts to
finish up my auto trans.
Well now its time to put the auto in. Like everything in this build, the auto trans
snowballed way beyond what I originally was going to do. I’ll try to list all the parts I went with in
Kiggly Billet Front Clutch
Liberty Transfer Gears
JB Designs Rear Basket
JB Designs Input Shaft
Translab Shift Kit
Morrison Fab Short Shift Bracket
I also went with the Kiggly Racing 2G 6 Bolt adapter plate
and flex plate.
To get the power from the engine to the transmission I went
with a Precision #6 torque converter.
Getting the power out of the transmission I made some upgrades
as well. I already had a FrontLine Fab
automatic transfer case brace so I decided to use that. I also had a brand new manual transmission
300M transfer case. In case anyone wasn’t
aware, the output shaft and transfer case gears are the same between the auto
and manual (for like years). So I took
my auto housings, cross shaft and FLF tcase brace and swapped in the gear and
output shaft from my manual 300M transfer case.
I already had a DSS 3.5” driveshaft but I got the Sonnax front
yoke from Tim Zimmer for it. I also had
DSS stage 5 rear axles that work with an auto or manual so they went back in. I had to swap in an auto rear diff and I had
a billet rear diff cover made probably about 5 years before FLF made theirs so
I decided just to keep that. I had a set
of DSS Stage 2 front axles for the car but I broke one with the dog box so I
bought a new replacement for that.
Here’s a summary of the driveline:
Kiggly 6 bolt 2G adapter and flex plate
Precision #6 Converter
Fully Built Auto Transmission
300M Transfer Case with FLF Brace
DSS Stage 2 Front Axles
Sonnax Front Yoke
DSS 3.5” Aluminum Driveshaft
Custom Billet rear diff cover
DSS Stage 5 Rear axles
The transmission looks like crap and I didn’t have time to
paint it or anything so the next time I have a chance it’s going to get cleaned
up and painted or maybe even powder coated if I feel like taking it apart.
Alright, lets go back to buttoning up the turbo. Just a reminder, I went with the Xona Rotor
XR 10569S X3C turbocharger ( http://xonarotor.com/product/xr-10569s-x3c/
). This is their ~1100 hp turbo in a really
nice compact package. I’m controlling
boost with a pair of TiAl MV-S waste gates also with our custom engraved logo
on them. I can’t thank TiAl and Xona
enough for coming on board for this build.
These are all mounted to a Shearer Fab header which you can
now buy from Matt and Samantha at Morrison Fab.
In an effort to save time (plus they’re a lot better at this than me!) I
ordered a custom Morrison Fab downpipe also.
I worked closely with Matt to get it as close as possible to mounting to
my exhaust and he left the last two welds for me to finish it off. This saved me a ton of time and it came out
I also plumbed up all the wastegate vacuum lines, oil lines and coolant lines using stainless AN hose.
I’m going to start with the fuel system problems that I was
looking to overcome.
The stock 2G fuel tank sucks for drag racing. The pickup is toward the front, its plastic
so you can’t weld a sump in it, there’s no drain and to top it all off, it’s a saddle
tank with a siphon cross over that becomes a restriction at high flow. Yes, I know there are Band-Aids for some of
these things but they’re all Band-Aids.
Next is type of fuel.
For Drag Week I need to drive 1000 miles on the street and race for 5
consecutive days. 93 octane pump gas isn’t
going to get me to my goal. E85 would
certainly get me there but the route is not provided until the day of and E85
stations can be hard to come by. It’s
not practical to bring along enough E85 for 1000 miles plus racing, although
some do it.
Fuel tank size, for this much street driving, I wanted
something in the 15-20 gallon range and putting a fuel cell in the trunk at
that size is kind of crazy. Then
swapping fuels at the track with a tank that big could turn into a
Switching between 93 octane on the street and E85 at the track
has its own set of challenges. E85 requires
quite a bit more fuel than 93 octane. So
I’d need very large fuel pumps and very large injectors to handle the E85 and
they most likely wouldn’t drive all that spectacular on pump gas (although Fuel
Injector Clinic 2150’s do decent on 93 considering how massive they are).
Then there’s methanol injection (meth is a drug, methanol is
fuel we use in race cars, this is a pet peeve of mine). The conventional way of doing methanol
injection is to use an irrigation pump never designed to be used with corrosive
fuels, a crude solenoid and some irrigation nozzles. I’ve tuned these systems plenty and they’re
never consistent, can’t be tuned for all conditions because of the delay in the
pump turning on, etc. Sure, you can make
power with them and some people have luck with them. To me they just aren’t the proper way to do it
though so I avoid it on my personal stuff and I avoid tuning cars with them for
the most part.
So no onto what I decided to do. This is a fuel system I’ve wanted to do since
like 2008 when I was tuning an Evo on Methanol injection regularly and dealing with
the headaches above with inconsistencies and whatnot.
Run an 8 injector setup, 4 primaries on 93 octane pump
gas. Then a set of 4 secondaries on a
completely different fuel (in my case E98, although I might try methanol at
some point, it’s just some scaling in Haltech to make a change).
So how did I do this?
I kept the stock tank and all of its headaches. I installed a Walbro 450 pump in the stock
location. This pump is overkill for what
I’m doing but I decided to go 450 for head room in case I wanted to do something
different in the future. I have the rest
of the fuel stuff (feed/return/filter/rail/etc) to support big flow so I might
as well. I installed the Walbro 450 in
the tank and transitioned the stock sending unit to -8 AN line. I installed Fuelab filter in the engine bay,
then continued -8 AN to the rail. In the
rail I installed a new set of Fuel Injector Clinic 650cc high impedance
injectors (PN: IS126-0650H). These
injectors can support just over 300 whp on pump gas at stock pressures. They can be pushed further for sure but this is
the safe area. From there I went -8 AN
to a Fuelab AFPR, then -6 AN back to the tank.
In the tank, I drilled out the siphon (I forget the exact size but I used
information I found here on Tuners to decide).
So that’s my primary fuel system. 93 octane, Walbro 450 and a set of 4 FIC
650cc hi-Z injectors. Fairly normal and
easy setup. That’s going to make drivability
of the car pretty awesome, but it’s not going to get me into the 8’s. Probably not even the 11’s for that
So now onto the secondary fuel system. I found a ~2 gallon fuel cell that fits next
to my roll cage behind my drivers side rear wheel well and mounted that. It has 2 -10 AN outlets on it standard, so I
ran both of those to a pair of Bosch 044 pumps.
Those two pumps exit in a pair of -8 AN lines to a Y that also exits in
a single -8 AN. That goes to a fuel lab alcohol-based
fuel safe fuel filter mounted under the car.
From there I continued the -8 right up to my secondary rail. In the secondary rail I have a set of FIC
2150 Hi-Z injectors (PN: IS126-2150H).
FIC rates these at over 900 whp on E85 and 58 PSI fuel pressure. From the secondary rail, I go to a second
Fuelab fuel pressure regulator with -8 AN line.
Then from there I have a -6 AN return line all the way back to the top
of the fuel cell in the back.
In this system, I plan to run VP X98, which is just the most
readily available E98 that I can get here.
I’d use any E98 I can get but I was having trouble finding anything and
running out of time so VP X98 it is.
So here’s how the controls work. Haltech is setup on gasoline and the FIC Data
Match data is plugged directly into the Haltech software for the 650’s. I literally plugged this information in, guessed
at some VE values for my combination at idle, set target lambda to 1.0 and the
car fired and idled perfectly. Data
Match technology is awesome for that, you know exactly what you’re getting and
if your software is advanced enough, you can plug that information right into
The secondary injectors are a bit trickier. Haltech (and most tuning software that I know
of) don’t offer options for injecting multiple types of fuel at the same time,
so I had to trick it. 93 octane stoich
is 14.7:1. VP X98 is 8.98:1. I have the exact data match data for each
injector and that’s what I used in Haltech but I’m going to simplify the math
here and just do it for 2150 cc’s. So
now I multiply 2150 cc * 8.98 / 14.7 and that gets me the “effective” injector
size for these injectors (1313 cc’s) for the Haltech Software. This doesn’t mean the injectors are flowing
1313 cc/min. It means that Haltech thinks its injecting gasoline so it’s going
to calculate fueling according to a stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1, but it’s
actually injecting pure ethanol. I’m
fooling the system into injecting more fuel (by the proper amount) to account
for the stoichiometric difference between the two fuels.
I could have done this opposite and set it up for E98 in the
haltech software, then put the 2150cc Data Match Technology data right into
haltech and setup the 650’s as: 650 *
14.7/8.98 = 1064. This would have
accomplished the same exact thing but I decided to do it the other way.
I’m also running the 2150’s at 58 PSI of base pressure so I
had to do this all for 58 PSI. I have
all of this data direct from FIC on the Data Match data sheet but if you need
to do the math, it’s SQRT(New Pressure / Old Pressure) * Old Flow Rate = New
Flow Rate. 2150’s flow about 2480 at 58
PSI for reference and then with my fuel type modifier, I entered about 1516 cc
Okay, enough math, I didn’t actually describe how any of
this is controlled yet. The primary
fuel pump (Walbro 450) and primary fuel injectors (FIC 650H) are all wired to
the Haltech as a normal fuel system would be.
The 450 is on an output switch through a relay and setup as the primary
fuel pump. It primes at key on, turns on
with the engine, etc. The injectors are
wired to the first 4 fuel injector outputs.
This part is as basic as it gets.
The secondary fuel pumps are wired to another output through
a high current relay (80 amp I believe to be safe). This is setup in Haltech as a secondary fuel
pump and I can customize how/when it turns on.
I haven’t messed with this too much yet, but I can turn it on based on
fuel flow, load, etc. It’s up to
me. My ultimate plan is to calculate at
what injector flow rate I want the secondaries to turn on and enter a fuel flow
number lower than this for the fuel pumps so that they are already on and primed
before the secondaries turn on.
The FIC 2150H’s are wired to the second 4 injector
outputs. These I have turned on when the
primary injectors reach a set injector duty cycle. I haven’t messed with these settings much yet
but I can allow the primaries to get to say 50% duty cycle, then the
secondaries will start phasing in. In a
split second the secondaries and primaries will match duty cycle and I’ll be
injecting the same duty cycle worth of E98 and 93 octane.
So, what’s that mean for fuel mixtures? It means that I’ve
now mechanically defined my ethanol content by injector sizing. At full fuel flow, I’m injecting
approximately 650cc of gas and 2480cc of ethanol (per cylinder). That means ~26% of my fuel (by volume) is gas
and ~74% is ethanol. AKA I’m running
about E74 under boost.
All of this means I can pull up at any gas station and fill
with 93 octane and keep cruising. I need
to bring E98 with me, but I should use quite a bit less than half a gallon of
E98 per run, meaning one 5 gallon pale of E98 will get me over 10 passes down
the track. It also means that the way I
drive the car from track to track is exactly how its raced power wise. If I was so inclined, I could roll into the power
whenever I want and it’s all setup exactly as at the race track.
Obviously, this is quite a bit more complicated than just
adding an irrigation pump and a nozzle into my charge pipe, but I like the math
and figuring it all out. Plus, I like
that I know exactly what is going on with the whole system and have full
control over it, which is what this setup affords me. I’ll probably mess with different fuels in
the secondary injectors eventually. It’s
just simple injector scaling as I mentioned above for a fuel change. Fairly straight forward.
Okay, that was a lot of words, hopefully I answered most questions. Feel free to ask away. Let me show some pictures of this whole setup.
Drive By Wire (DBW).
I think this is the post that a lot of people were waiting for. This is something I’ve wanted to do for a
long time and thought this was the perfect opportunity.
If you’ve tuned a DSM on large injectors, lightweight
flywheel, etc, etc, etc, you know that they can be a pain to get to idle. If you have the stock throttle body, you’re
limited by a fairly basic ISC motor with a limited range of adjustment. If you have an aftermarket throttle body and
stock ECU (like DSMLink for example), you are even more limited in ISC options,
basically only making an inline adapter for a stock ISC, or run no ISC like
most of us. With no ISC, it seems like
your options are usually requiring a little throttle to keep the car running
during warm up and then a reasonable idle once warmed up or a reasonable idle
during warmup and a high idle once warmed up.
I’ve messed with timing, fuel, all sorts of settings to get some cars to
warm up and idle decent and sometimes there’s just nothing you can do without
In comes the DBW throttle body. The ECU can now open or close the throttle
body as much as it needs to get the car to the target idle. This is far more advanced and customizable
than a 30-year-old ISC motor.
In addition, now that the computer has control of the
throttle body, you can do some other cool things. You can have the computer anticipate the
throttle opening and inject fuel at the proper time for that accelerator squirt
rather than in a conventional cable system being reactionary to the throttle
blade opening. This is done because the
input is from your foot to a sensor on the gas pedal, this tells the computer
to open throttle body, so it now knows this event is coming and can squirt in
extra fuel at the same time.
Another benefit is that I can add built cruise control. All this requires is another input into the
ECU to set the cruise control and then instead of that huge box under the hood
that we all ditch, it just opens and closes the throttle body as
The final benefit that I’ll mention here advanced traction
control/launch control. You can use the
throttle body to limit power based on tire slippage or other parameters you
I’m sure there are other benefits that I’m not thinking of
now, if you know of something, please post it.
Since this event is primarily street driving, I wanted the
ultimate in drivability so this seemed like a no brainer.
To do this on a DSM, it first and foremost requires an
aftermarket ECU (Such as the Haltech Elite 2500 I’m using).
Next you need a throttle pedal and a throttle body. I chose the GM throttle pedal (I think from a
Camaro?) and a Bosch throttle body. I
believe the throttle body is used on Porsche’s and BMW’s and is right around
I already had a DVDT Fabrications sheet metal intake setup for a Q45 throttle body and I absolutely love the way it performs so I didn’t want to get a whole new intake. I designed up an adapter for the Bosch DBW throttle body and then 3D printed it to verify fitment.
I actually found a slight interference with one of the
screws and the back of the throttle body thanks to this mockup so I modified
the design slightly and then sent it off to Albert at DVDT Fab to make it out
of aluminum. His work always looks
Here are some pics of the adapters and then installation of
the throttle body.
Next was the gas pedal.
You can see its not THAT different from the stock 2G pedal. I was actually able to use one stock stud on
the firewall for it I believe.
I made an aluminum adapter bracket for it that picks up some stock studs/holes in the firewall and then mounts the pedal. I had to angle the bottom out more than the 2G pedal to get the full range of motion. When I have more time, I might look into moving the whole assembly out further rather than angling it in the future if this turns out to not be super comfortable. Sorry for the bad picture, not a ton of light in the car. The adapter isn’t my best work either but I was running out of time at this point.
So now its all installed in the car, the next thing is to
wire it up to the Haltech Elite 2500. It
was a bit of a pain to find the correct connectors for the Bosch throttle body. I’m sure many people will just grab junk yard
parts and pigtails but I wanted to use brand new connectors. I had to pay $18 for the throttle body
connector and pins and I was able to get the gas pedal GM one for just a couple
Now its onto setup. Haltech
makes it super easy. I did have one
glitch during setup. One of my sensor
inputs for the gas pedal had the pull up resistor enabled and I had to scroll
over on my screen to see that. The
throttle pedal worked for one opening before going into limp mode and closing
before I found that error. Setup is
literally just assign the inputs and outputs in the Haltech software then
follow the on-screen instructions. 0%
throttle, hit okay, 100% throttle, hit okay, then let it drive the throttle
blade through its range of motion and its calibrated. Once its setup, you can then enable idle
control and any other DBW functions you want.
So how this works:
There are two throttle pedal position sensors in the throttle
pedal that use independent inputs to the ECU.
Then there are two throttle plate position sensors in the throttle body that
also use independent inputs to the ECU.
Finally there are two stepper motor outputs from the Haltech to the
throttle body that drive it to the desired position.
Haltech I believe uses two different processors to handle
the two inputs from the throttle pedal and throttle body. It’s constantly verifying that the two
match. If it detects a discrepancy between
say one throttle pedal sensor and the other throttle pedal sensor, it will
immediately send the DBW system into limp mode and close the throttle
blade. This should never be possible as
long as both sensors are working properly so its just a fail safe in case one
sensor does fail.
Since I already spilled the beans and told everyone that the
car runs and drives and broke already, I will say that this system works
great. I’ll post some videos of it soon
also. With idle control enabled, the car
fires right up and sits there and idles.
I didn’t spend any time tuning it at all yet but I seemed to be able to
get a fairly nice idle at around 1000 RPM’s with virtually no effort. I want to add a transmission gear input so
that the ECU knows when the car is in gear vs not and I can have two different
And I know I’m beating a dead horse but please help out these
people who helped me make a build like this possible. These companies are all AMAZING to deal with
and make amazing products or else I wouldn’t put their products in my car or recommend
Wiring… This is going to be a long post. I have a love/hate relationship with
wiring. I’m decent at it, but I’m
incredibly slow at it and I strongly dislike doing it. I’ve also found it costs a fortune to do it
correctly but at this point I have all the tools, including a shrink sleeve label
maker and Deutsch crimper so doing more wiring jobs isn’t too bad. Don’t ask me to build you a wiring harness
though, you can’t pay me enough.
This post is going to be more a wiring and electronics
post. I’ll post more about the DBW setup
in the next post but pretty much everything else electrical will be here.
Assorted Haltech Pressure and Temperature Sensors – I can go
more into what all I’m logging later if anyone asks.
Haltech Premium long flying
Amazon switch panel with USB and Cigarette lighter ports
Stock Mitsubishi fuse box and chassis harness
Raychem DR-25 sleeving
Primarily Duetsch DT/DTM/DTP connectors
Most of this post is just going to be pictures, I’ll add quick comments to what I’m showing in them if I think it needs explanation. Otherwise, please ask!
Random parts assortment. You can see here that the Dash is a reuse from the dragster. We switched the dragster to the new AEM CD5 color dash for some added features it has. Both cars run the Haltech Elite 2500.
Getting started, it looks like a mess
And I’m going to hold off on “Finished” wiring pictures because that will give away the finished car. 🙂 I’ll post more this week.
Okay, so rewinding a bit here. The engine was mostly assembled above but I
needed to get the camshaft tapped for the 2G CAS. Martin from RX4Speed tapped my Kelford cam
for me and I was in business.
I degreed the cams:
Then I decided to mount the turbo to get some awesome pictures of it.
There were some parts delays with my new Auto trans and I was running low on time so I decided to put the engine in the car with my dogbox just so I could get started on the wiring and plumbing. There were some items I couldn’t finalize without the auto but I needed to start making forward progress, so in goes the engine with the dogbox.
I don’t have any big updates because I’ve been gathering parts so I’ll just take some time to talk about some of the parts that have come in.
As you saw in the previous post, I have a new Xona Rotor XR
105 68 turbocharger for the car. The
thing is beautiful, I can’t wait to get the engine in the car so I can mount
it. I’m so glad to have Xona Rotor on
board for this project, they’ve been amazing to work with.
I also got a new set of TiAl MV-S Wastegates and a pair of
Tial Q BOV’s. These were custom engraved
by TiAl with my turbo4.com logo on them and they look killer.
I got my Fuel Injector Clinic 2150’s cleaned by FIC and back
here. I’ve had these injectors a long
time, FIC has since changed their adapter arrangement for more connector
clearance but what I have works just fine for me.
I also got my Haltech Elite 2500 for the car and started the
wiring using Haltech’s premium unterminated harness. This is the same ECU and harness I use in the
I got a bunch of Kiggly goodies but the only one I have a
picture of at the moment is the crank trigger.
You can see the main girdle in the previous post I made. I also have the oil pressure modifier and Kiggly’s
Front Clutch Basket.
Here’s my Precision converter that I’ll be using. This is a Precision #6 converter in their
token purple color.
Here’s what I’m using for both my engine oil cooler and
transmission cooler. I purchased two of
these Derale fluid coolers and I’ll be mounting them in the side openings
And here’s my random rack of parts. You’ll notice some manual parts here too because I also have a dogbox for this car that may or may not go back in after Drag Week.
It’s time for some new parts! I have to give a HUGE thank you to Xona Rotor
for this incredibly beautiful XR 105 68 turbocharger. The turbo is a work of art and I can’t wait to
run it. It goes along perfectly with the
custom engraved Tial MV-S 38mm waste gates.
I decided to install the springs in the waste gate today,
they come with a variety of springs for everything from .3 bar to 1.7 bar of
base pressure. I decided to install 1
bar worth of spring. In my experience
when running a boost control solenoid and applying boost pressure to the top of
the gate, you can still run a lot of boost, more than I should need. I can add more spring if I find a boost limit
with this setup. On the newer MV-S
gates, the red and black springs give you 1 bar.
Compressing the springs can be challenging so I setup an
Irwin clamp in my vice with a block of wood to compress the gate. I taped the top to prevent any scratching. This ended up working out really well and
made this an easy one-person job.
Once that was done, I installed the gates and turbo to my old school Shearer Fab header. If you are interested in this header, hit up Morrison Fab. They took over the Shearer headers and make some cool new headers now too. I didn’t have the right size snap ring pliers so I wasn’t able to clock the compressor cover yet but I’ll do that in the next week.
Sorry for the lack of updates the last couple weeks. I’ve been traveling a bunch for work so it slowed
work on the car slightly, but its still progressing.
My dad recently buttoned up my engine. There’s one part I need to finish it up and I
also need to get my intake cam tapped because I’m going to run a 2G CAS. Then I’ll degree the cams in and the engine
will be ready to drop in.
The engine is the same engine that was in the car for the past few years. It’s a turbo4.com 2.0 with Wiseco pistons and
aluminum rods. Kiggly girdle, ARP mains,
etc. I had a bad time with money shifts in
the car with the dog box. I found that
when the car got loose during acceleration, my focus would be more on steering than
the shift and the dreaded 1-2-1 or 2-3-2 would happen. I think this motor saw at least 5 misshifts, all
occurring above 9000 RPM which takes the engine into the 12-14k RPM range. That’s the sole reason I decided to tear the
engine down and go through it.
Amazingly, it all looked perfect, minus the couple rockers it threw on
the last misshift.
The head is a custom CNC ported head, Kiggly bee-hive
springs and I’m switching to smaller Kelford cams now (I was on the FP5R/11’s
before). I’m also using a DVDT Fab sheet
metal intake with 8 Fuel Injector Clinic Injectors.
While I had the engine apart, I decided to do the Kiggly oil pickup mod. It was such a pain to try to weld on crappy oil pickup. I spent a bunch of time cleaning it but I couldn’t get all the oil out and it made welding a nightmare. I’m definitely not a pro welder either, I’m just a self-taught welder from youtube videos. I finished off the bottom end with a new 90 oil filter housing for the external oil cooler and a brand new oil pan. I think that covers most of the engine stuff for now, feel free to ask any questions.