This post will be to go into some more detail about what the actual plan is with the car. Racing for 5 days and 1000 miles of street driving in between is going to be grueling on the car. We will be towing a trailer with spare parts, tools and slicks. You’re not allowed to have a support vehicle and technically only the people who ride in the car can even work on it. So later in this build, I’ll be going into the trailer hitch, building the trailer and stocking it with supplies, but that’s for a later post. Let’s focus on the car first.
The pictures throughout this post are all of the last build on this car.
I currently have a 2.0L turbo4.com aluminum rod engine for the car. The engine is probably about 7 or 8 years old at this point but doesn’t have a ton of mileage since I kept changing setups on the car during that time. The engine saw at least 5 2-3-2 shifts happening at about 9500 RPM’s so it’s seen in the ballpark of 13,000 RPM’s multiple times. Because of that, I decided to tear the motor down and go through it and it turns out, everything is perfect! I could put the bearings right back in it but since it’s apart, I’m going to put some fresh bearings in it and a fresh head gasket. My dad technically does all the engine work. He really enjoys that work. When it’s going back together, I’ll grab pictures of the build to post.
For the head, I have a turbo4.com CNC ported 1G head along with some fresh Kelford Camshafts. The head also has Manley Performance valves and Kiggly beehive springs. On the intake side I’ll be running a DVDT Fab intake manifold and on the exhaust side a Shearer Fab divided T4 top mount header.
I’m going to swap to an automatic for this build as I think it gives me the best chance of surviving the week. The transmission is currently with Aaron Gregory getting a host of upgrades and a once over by the 5 time Shootout champ. I’ll be getting a Precision converter for the car and I already have the Kiggly 6 bolt in a 2G auto kit. From there, I’ll be utilizing stock 2G front axles for the front. A 300M upgraded tcase, DSS 3.5” aluminum driveshaft, factory 2G auto rear differential and DSS Stage 5 rear axles. That pretty much rounds out the driveline.
A Haltech Elite 2500T will be managing just about everything in the car. I’m using the Haltech long harness as a basis for the wiring harness for the car and I’ll be using an additional fuse box for some of the remaining items. I’ll be using the Haltech CAN wideband, CAN 4 channel EGT box and a multitude of sensors. The Haltech will be controlling everything for the engine, the staged injection, ignition timing, boost control, etc. It will also be controlling the various cooling fans, throttle body, idle control and some other stuff that I’ll go into later.
The throttle body setup I spoke about a bit above, it’s a GM drive-by-wire throttle body and gas pedal wired into the Haltech Elite. What this should do is allow me to have the ultimate idle control and drivability with a throttle body that can handle way more power than I need to make on this project. I could also add cruise control with the DBW throttle body but I’m not if I will or not yet.
The fuel system is another “unique” aspect of this build. The stock fuel tank will be utilized with a Walbro pump and some small Fuel Injector Clinic injectors in the head. This will be the primary fuel system that will be used 100% of the time. I’ll be able to fill the tank with 93 octane and drive the car around on this system as much as I want. A small fuel cell is being added for E98 with twin Bosch 044 pumps, a secondary rail on the DVDT Fab intake and Fuel Injector Clinic 2150 CC injectors. At a pre-determined airflow or boost level, the Haltech will turn the 044 pumps on, then shortly after it will begin injecting fuel with the 2150’s.
The chassis is a mostly stock 95 Eclipse GSX with an 8.50 certified cage that was installed by Ken’s Kustom Chassis. It is also getting tubular front and rear sub frames and tubular control arms. The car will be running on JIC FLTA2 coil overs all around. It’s also getting Wilwood 6 piston front brakes and BrakeMan single piston rear brakes.
The car has most of the usual weight reduction items done already, removed AC, heat, power steering, etc. I’ve also removed the sound deadening and any unused misc items I could. It’s had a carbon fiber hood on it for years and for drag week, I’m adding fiberglass doors, a carbon sunroof and a carbon hatch with a lexan rear window. The tubular subframes and the brakes mentioned above are also a very large weight savings. I also have Kirkey seats in the car and a majority of the interior will be gutted for this event. Prior to this, I always prided myself on having a 100% full interior “street” car but in an effort to keep this alive, the interior is going.
The engine cooling is via a Scirroco radiator and I’m considering adding a secondary coolant cooler in the stock intercooler location. I also have large oil and transmission coolers on their way, both with fans. I’ll be documenting those installations once I get to them.
I’m sure I’ve missed a lot of stuff in this write up and there are a few items I’ve intentionally left out for now also. I’ll be going into much more detail on all of these components as I work on the car and progress with the build.
Feel free to ask questions and I’ll do my best to answer. 😊